
Pack for the mornings
Almost everyone packs for the afternoon they imagined and is cold at dawn.
Between November and February the north genuinely is cold before sunrise — the hour you will be at the Taj, on the water at Varanasi, or in an open vehicle in a park. The afternoon may reach twenty-six degrees. Both are true on the same day, and layers are the only way to hold both.
The rest is courtesy rather than restriction. Shoulders and knees covered in towns and at religious sites. Shoes off at temples, at homes, at some shops — which makes footwear a real decision. Slip-ons will make a temple day pleasant. Laced boots will make it a chore.
At gurdwaras heads are covered and a scarf is usually provided at the door. Some Jain temples ask that no leather comes in at all, belts and bags included. Your guide will tell you before you are standing at the threshold holding a handbag.




